Chloé, Spring-Summer 2014

We always love to see when a client creates more than just beautiful fashion and gorgeous photography. Chloé recently put together a great story surrounding their Spring-Summer 2014 campaign, which was shot in East Hampton, New York.

Clare Waight Keller, Creative Director at Chloé, was responsible for this comprehensive pieceCamille Bidault-Waddington served as stylist, and photography was by Inez & Vinoodh. Tailoring was by Stitched Tailors.

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Zachary Quinto for Mr. Porter

It’s no surprise we are fans of the Mr. Porter site. It’s cleanly designed, and full of great information about amazing fashion shoots and a wide range of other products. If you want to know about men’s style, make visiting this site a habit. In short, a very classy operation, and we’re pleased we were able to work with them.

Actor Zachary Quinto was recently featured on the Mr. Porter site, along with an impressive story by Jonathan Hey. This is an old school, magazine-quality feature, and well worth reading. One of our most-requested tailors was on the job, working with stylist Bruce Pask and photographer Robbie Fimmano. Mr. Porter has released a series of photos, some of which are presented below as tear sheets, which feature Mr. Quinto as a modern version of James Dean wandering Times Square. Quinto is, of course, more well-dressed than Dean was in his icon photo, sporting six different coats, and we can only guess if he’s pondering his new role in the revival of The Glass Menagerie.

Here’s some of the moody tear sheets we’ve seen reproduced all over the Internet. Great job to everyone on the production team!

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Kerry Washington for Lucky Magazine

For the December 2013 / January 2014 issue of Lucky magazine, our tailors once again worked with photographer Patrick Demarchelier and stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele to help make the Scandal star look her best in a variety of styles.

As with our Lucky shoot with Eva Mendes for their October 2013 issue, our work included both the cover and an inside spread. As always, the entire Lucky team was wonderful to work with.

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Robert De Niro for DuJour Magazine

RobertCoverOur tailors worked with photographer Robbie Fimmano and stylist Karen Kaiser to ready heavyweight actor Robert De Niro for DuJour magazine. The resulting collaboration was featured in the Fall, 2013 issue.

Unbeknownst to us, the tailor we sent to Mr. De Niro’s penthouse just happened to be a fan of Robert De Niro’s father’s paintings, several of which graced the walls of the apartment.

See the cover and tear sheet on our media page for this shoot.

DuJour also has a great app for the iPhone and iPad. It keeps intact the wonderful layout and design of their print version.

Eva Mendes, Lucky Magazine

For the October 2013 issue of Lucky magazine, our tailors worked with photographer Patrick Demarchelier and stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele to help make Eva Mendes look her most fabulous.

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Our work included both the cover and an inside spread. As always, the entire Lucky team was wonderful to work with.

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See more tearsheets on our media page.

We look forward to sharing with our readers more of the great work our tailors are delivering for our clients every day. Stay tuned for more of this new direction in content on our blog.

From the Tailors’ Studio: How to Measure Yourself Properly

The occasion may arise when you need to measure yourself for a pair of new pants, a shirt, or the like. Of course, any tailor is trained to do these measurements, but it’s helpful to know how to do it yourself, as well. Here are our tips on how to make your measurements accurately, and a guide on what terms and tools you will need.

 

Tools
You’ll need a cloth tape measure (a metal tape measure won’t work), and a pencil and paper to write down the measurements.

Take it off
You’re going to want to measure yourself against your bare skin, so remove your clothes first. You’re going to take measurements of your chest, waist, hips, and inseam, plus a few extra measurements you may need.

Don’t suck in
You want your clothes to look great on you, and this requires accurate measurements. If you’re measuring yourself, don’t suck in you belly or cheat on the measurements! This may sound silly, but you could sabotage a flattering garment in the making (or in-the-alternations) if you don’t measure accurately.

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“Appearances Can Be Deceiving : Frida Kahlo’s Wardrobe,” Revealed After 60 Years

 An unlocking of the iconic wardrobe of the Mexican artist after 60 years

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Frida Khalo was one of the most memorable artists of the twentieth century, and her personal style was a deep part of her artistic identity. Her self portraits and personal mythology became an icon of inspiration for feminists, political activists, and artists to the present day.

Forgoing the slinky dresses and gelled curls of the 1930’s, Khalo instead wore traditional Mexican Tehuana costuming, which consisted of a long, full, skirt; a short, square blouse covered with necklaces; and flowered headpiece, which she usually wore over tautly parted and braided hair. The Tehuana was an indigenous, Mexican, matriarchal society, and her choice to wear their garments asserted her feminist stance. He identity was so deeply linked to her wardrobe that when she died in 1954, her husband Diego Rivera decided that all of her clothing, jewelry, corsets, and accessories were to be locked up in a closet for fifteen years. But he died three years later, and friend of the couple (who was also an art collector) named Dolores Olmedo became their estate manager, and the inaccessible closet remained a locked mystery space at Casa Azul, Khalo and Rivera’s home. According to Mexican costume and fashion curator Circe Henestrosa, a series of misunderstandings led to all of the garments to be kept under lock and key until Olmedo died in 2002 (some accounts say 2004).

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Now, Frida’s iconic clothing is on display at Museo Frida Khalo in Mexico City (AKA Casa Azul). In addition to the flamboyant and radical garments that she made so irrevocably hers, the intimate show also exhibits an aspect of the artist that was just as emblematic of her as the clothes: her ongoing physical pain. During her childhood, she suffered from polio, leaving her health fragile and with a small, stunted right leg. As a teenager, she also suffered a terribly violent bus accident, which led to many surgeries to correct her spine; as a married woman, she also suffered a number of miscarriages. To make matters worse, her husband, muralist Rivera, had numerous infidelities during their dramatic marriage. Khalo was in chronic pain—both physical and emotional—her whole life, giving great depth and rawness to her self-portraits.

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On display along with the brightly colored, indiginous-inspired Tehuana ensembles are also the leather and plaster medical corsets that Khalo had to wear for years after the bus accident and subsequent numerous spinal surgeries, as well as prosthetics to aid with her polio-disabled leg which she had amputated a year before her death at 53.   The Tehuana costumes are certainly all of what she intended as a political and feminist statement, but the loose layers of the long skirts were also a comfortable way to conceal her handicapped leg, and the boxy shirt a way to conceal her plaster corsets.

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The exhibition also shows contemporary fashion inspired by Frida:  including three Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci dresses of the Fall Winter 2010 Collection, and a corset gown by Jean Paul Gaultier. The exhibition runs through January 2014.

Gatsby, Classic 1920’s Menswear, and the Meaning of a Flapper’s Dress

Australian film director Baz Luhrmann is known for his highly stylized art direction and rich, cinematic visuals. Its no surprise that the costume design and styling of his recently released Gatsby, which garnered $51.1 million during its opening weekend in May, was both lavish and successful in portraying the decadence of the period.

Luhrmann and his head costume designer, Catherine Martin, collaborated with the classic, preppy Brooks Brothers brand to custom make sharply tailored menswear for all of the male cast members, but also for the hundreds of extras as well. The director and costume designer referenced The Great Gatsby text directly to see how F. Scott Fitzgerald had dressed his characters; details such as Gatsby himself in a pink linen suit (played in the film by Leonardo DeCaprio) surfaced. Interestingly, F. Scott Fitzgerald himself regularly wore Brooks Brothers, and was in regular communication with the company, making the partnership all the more appropriate and powerful.

Brooks Brothers took these literary details, inspiration from the collaboration with Martin, and created a limited edition line of menswear: The Great Gatsby Collection. The collection includes classic 1920’s gentleman’s attire including a burgundy wool striped regatta blazer, to be worn with white linen slacks and a straw boater hat. There are also accessories available such as walking canes and black patent leather loafers. Now contemporary gentlemen of the upper echelons can party like its 1921 in the dandy styles of the decadently roaring twenties. Gatsby’s iconic pink linen suit was also available, but seems to be sold out as of the publication of this story.

But Brooks Brothers were not the only brand to add their signature look to the film: Miuccia Prada guest-designed forty women’s gowns for the lavish party scenes: extravagant encrusted silk, beading and crystals, and flamboyant headwear. In the interview below, Martin discusses how Prada’s signature style is influenced by the past, yet looks totally of the moment, which is why they asked her to create the flappers’ party dresses. Prada and Martin were able to capture the defiant and carefree attitude of the flapper through their designs.

A bit of background on the flapper should be mentioned as well. The traditional flapper’s attire reflected her disdain for the more conservative values of society, and instead embraced her love of driving cars, drinking, smoking, engaging in casual sex and “petting parties,” and wearing makeup. The flapper was not an intellectual feminist by any stretch of the imagination, and some suffragettes of the time critisized flappers for being “superficial.”  The flapper’s clothing and style did pave the way, however,  for new aspects of female liberation by asserting that women could enjoy the spoils of society just as men, and with as much vigor.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2013 Haute Couture

For Chanel’s current Spring/Summer 2013 haute couture line, designer Karl Lagerfeld envisioned something a bit different than the usual runway show. In a beautiful antique ampitheatre, Lagerfeld creates an enchanted forest for his models to circulate in, dreamily wandering together in reverie.

Black, white, and navy characterize most of the gowns, many in classic Chanel textures or with intricate beadwork. Feathers and Edwardian tones are met with architectural shoulders; layers of tulle, beaded flowers, and lace add to the romantic feel of the collection. Below are three incredible videos showing the collection, and some behind the scenes info with Lagerfeld and the couturiers.

View the whole enchanted forest runway show in HD here:

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A Brief Guide To The Ecological Clothing Movement

Based on mid-century manufacturing standards, there are a myriad of toxic chemicals which go into making your clothes. These chemicals affect you, they affect the environment, they affect the workers who made the clothes. Awareness of the complex problems 1950’s and 1960’s methods of manufacturing creates has paved the way for a new age of alternatives, including nontoxic textile manufacturing, clothing recycling, and sustainability and accountability in fashion.

Most of us don’t think about the impact of what we’re wearing on our own health, nor its impact on the environment’s health. But an awareness is increasing about the synthetic fabrics that have been used in the manufacture of clothing for over half a century, and the negative impact of their use. The Ethical Fashion Forum is an online resource for finding valuable information about ecological methods of manufacturing. First, here is a list of common fabrics and the toxic effects of their manufacture, which may surprise you—but will hopefully empower your choices in the future.

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