As any art world insider will tell you, fashion and art are cozier bedfellows than ever. In some regards, this union is counterintuitive, bringing to mind bohemians in their studios covered in paint, plaster, and shreds of particle board. But wait! How the artist wears her work suit of distressed fabrics just so! How it just hangs off the body, how it has an elegance…. And so, it is often true: artists have certainly have a way with style. (Think of Lee Miller, Frida Khalo, Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and so on.)
Especially in 2013, art’s biggest stars are bonafide celebrities, making the pairing between the fashion and fine art worlds stronger (and more profitable) than ever. In an ongoing series, we’re going to take a look at connections between the art world and fashion. That may be a literal collaboration between a label and an artist, such as Cory Archangel’s recent designs for Japanese firm A. Four Labs, a collaboration with artist Ryan Gander; it may be an historical look at an artist’s style, or at a brand appearing at a recent art fair.
To inaugurate the series, we’re looking at venerable performance artist Marina Abromovic. Originally from the former People’s Republic of Yugoslavia (now Serbia), the 66 year old has been exploring the boundaries of body and mind in her performance-based work for roughly four decades. Especially after her seminal exhibition at the MOMA in 2010, The Artist Is Present, Abromovic legitimized and drew attention to both performance art as a medium and, well, to herself—as an irrefutable art celebrity.
In this video by Art 21, Abromovic describes the previous standard for a woman’s appearance in performance art during the 1970’s: one which eschewed women wearing lipstick or anything traditionally feminine, in favor of the masculine and therefore more “serious” look of the plain and austere. (Art history may be on her side with this one: her de-sexualization of herself may have been necessary at the time. It is also important to note that she has refuted that she is a feminist or feminist artist. She is decidedly neither.) In an era of post-feminism wherein unabashed, flamboyant feminine beauty is acceptable, she now “embraces” fashion. Her costume choices for her recent performances include regal, high-necked long dresses of solid colors, flowing around her and onto the floor, as with The Artist Is Present.
The closing party of her MOMA exhibition was hosted by Givenchy, and she is currently on Givenchy’s Spring 2013 ad campaign, along with other friends of Givenchy’s creative director, Riccardo Tisci (along with Kate Moss and Mariacarla Boscono). The campaign features her in a minimal black suit jacket and white collar. She also has graced the covers of V Magazine and Elle Magazine, dressed in couture and red lipstick.
It’s amazing to see our youth-obsessed culture find a matriarch of performance with power and narcissism so deep that her age actually becomes a jewel in her crown rather than a handicap. To see her forge a relationship with the fashion world after sixty is incredible, a testament to her legacy as a cultural icon. Once again, we see even the least traditionally commercial of art forms, performance art, has found a way to become bedfellows with an industry synonymous with profit and economy.